How to Bend a 3-Point Saddle: Step-by-Step Guide

You're running conduit along a wall and a pipe crosses your path. You need the conduit to go over it and come back down to the original run. That's a 3 point saddle bend. It's one of the most common bends in the trade, and getting it right means knowing the formula, the shrink values, and where to put your marks.

This guide covers everything you need to bend a three point saddle in EMT or rigid conduit. You'll learn the math behind it, walk through worked examples at both 22.5-degree and 30-degree angles, and see the mistakes that trip up apprentices and journeymen alike.

What Is a 3-Point Saddle Bend?

A 3-point saddle uses three bends to route conduit over an obstruction and back to its original path. The center bend is made at the full angle (for example, 45 degrees). The two outer bends are each made at exactly half that angle (22.5 degrees) in the opposite direction. This lifts the conduit up, over, and back down.

Think of it as a triangle bump in your conduit run. The center bend is the peak, and the outer bends bring the conduit back in line. The NEC limits total bends between pull points to 360 degrees, and a 3-point saddle at 45 degrees uses 90 degrees of that allowance (45 + 22.5 + 22.5).

You'll use a 3-point saddle for round obstructions like pipes, conduits, and cables. For wide, flat obstructions like junction boxes or cable trays, a 4-point saddle is the better choice.

The Saddle Bend Formula

Two calculations drive every 3-point saddle: travel distance and shrink. Both depend on the obstruction height and the center bend angle you choose.

Travel Distance

Travel is the distance from the center mark to each outer mark on the conduit. The formula is:

Travel = Obstruction Height x Multiplier

The multiplier comes from the trigonometry of the bend angle. At 45 degrees, it's the cosecant of half the angle (cosecant of 22.5 degrees = 2.613... wait, that's for 22.5-degree center). Let's be precise. The multiplier for the outer bend angle is what matters. Since the outer bends are half the center angle, the multiplier is 1/sin(center angle / 2).

Shrink

When you bend a saddle, the conduit gets shorter. The peak of the saddle takes up space that used to be straight conduit. If you don't account for this, your saddle will end up past the obstruction instead of centered on it. You need to add the shrink amount to your center mark measurement.

Shrink = Obstruction Height x Shrink per Inch

Multiplier and Shrink Values by Angle

3-point saddle bend multipliers and shrink values for common center bend angles

Center Angle	Outer Angles (each)	Multiplier	Shrink per Inch
22.5°	11.25°	2.613	3/16"
30°	15°	2.000	1/4"
45°	22.5°	1.414	3/8"
60°	30°	1.155	1/2"

The 45-degree center angle is the most common choice on commercial jobs. It produces a clean saddle that's compact but not too steep. The EC&M basics of conduit bending guide recommends starting with 45 degrees when you're learning, then adjusting as needed for different situations.

Worked Example 1: 22.5-Degree Saddle Bend

Let's say you have a 1-inch water pipe crossing your conduit run. The pipe sits 2 inches above the mounting surface. The center of the pipe is 36 inches from the end of the conduit. You want a gentle 22.5-degree saddle bend.

Step 1: Gather your values

• Obstruction height: 2"
• Center bend angle: 22.5 degrees
• Distance to center of obstruction: 36"
• Multiplier: 2.613
• Shrink per inch: 3/16"

Step 2: Calculate shrink

Shrink = 2" x 3/16" = 6/16" = 3/8"

Step 3: Calculate the adjusted center mark

Center mark = 36" + 3/8" = 36-3/8"

Mark 36-3/8" from the end of the conduit. This is where the center of your saddle goes.

Step 4: Calculate travel distance

Travel = 2" x 2.613 = 5.226", which rounds to 5-1/4"

Step 5: Mark the outer bends

From the center mark, measure 5-1/4" in both directions. Mark those two points. You now have three marks on the conduit:

• First outer mark: 31-1/8" from the end (36-3/8" minus 5-1/4")
• Center mark: 36-3/8" from the end
• Second outer mark: 41-5/8" from the end (36-3/8" plus 5-1/4")

Step 6: Make the bends

1. Place the center mark on the rim notch (teardrop) of your bender, hook pointing toward the obstruction side. Bend to 22.5 degrees.
2. Flip the conduit. Align the first outer mark with the bender arrow. Bend to 11.25 degrees in the opposite direction.
3. Rotate 180 degrees. Align the second outer mark with the arrow. Bend to 11.25 degrees to match.

Check the conduit on a flat surface. It should sit flat on both ends with the saddle rising 2 inches at the center.

Worked Example 2: 30-Degree Saddle Bend

Now let's do a more common scenario. You've got a 3-inch obstruction (maybe a drain pipe) at 48 inches from the end of the conduit. You'll use a 30-degree center angle for a moderately compact saddle.

Step 1: Gather your values

• Obstruction height: 3"
• Center bend angle: 30 degrees
• Distance to center of obstruction: 48"
• Multiplier: 2.000
• Shrink per inch: 1/4"

Step 2: Calculate shrink

Shrink = 3" x 1/4" = 3/4"

Step 3: Calculate the adjusted center mark

Center mark = 48" + 3/4" = 48-3/4"

Step 4: Calculate travel distance

Travel = 3" x 2.000 = 6"

Step 5: Mark the outer bends

• First outer mark: 42-3/4" from the end (48-3/4" minus 6")
• Center mark: 48-3/4" from the end
• Second outer mark: 54-3/4" from the end (48-3/4" plus 6")

Step 6: Make the bends

1. Center mark on the rim notch, hook toward the obstruction. Bend to 30 degrees.
2. Flip, first outer mark on the arrow. Bend to 15 degrees opposite.
3. Rotate 180, second outer mark on the arrow. Bend to 15 degrees to match.

The finished saddle should clear the 3-inch obstruction with the conduit returning to its original run line on both sides.

How to Do This in the Conduit Bending App

The math above is straightforward, but on a job site with multiple saddles at different heights, it's easy to mix up your multipliers or forget to add shrink. Conduit Bending handles all of this automatically.

Open the Conduit Bending app and select the 3-Point Saddle calculator. Enter the obstruction height and pick your center angle. The app gives you:

• Center mark location (with shrink already added)
• Both outer mark locations
• Travel distance between bends
• Total shrink amount
• All three bend angles

The app supports all 16 bend types and includes bender-specific data for EMT, IMC, and rigid conduit from 1/2" to 4". You can also try the free online 3-Point Saddle Calculator right in your browser.

Choosing the Right Center Angle

Not every saddle should be 45 degrees. The angle you pick affects how steep the saddle is, how long it stretches along the conduit run, and how much shrink you need to compensate for. Here's a practical guide from EC&M's conduit bending tips:

When to use each center bend angle for 3-point saddle bends

Center Angle	Best For	Saddle Length	Shrink Factor
22.5°	Shallow obstructions under 2"	Longest (most gradual)	Lowest (3/16" per inch)
30°	Medium obstructions, 2" to 4"	Long	Low (1/4" per inch)
45°	Most common, good all-around	Moderate	Moderate (3/8" per inch)
60°	Tight spaces, large obstructions	Shortest (most compact)	Highest (1/2" per inch)

A shallower angle means less shrink to deal with, but the saddle stretches further along the conduit. Steeper angles make a compact saddle but eat more of your 360-degree bend allowance per NEC (NFPA 70) requirements. On a long run with multiple obstructions, those degrees add up fast.

Common Mistakes

Even experienced electricians make these errors. Knowing them ahead of time saves material and rework.

• Forgetting to add shrink: This is the number one mistake. Without the shrink adjustment, your saddle will land past the obstruction instead of centered on it. Always add the shrink to your center mark measurement before you start marking.
• Bending the outer bends in the wrong direction: The outer bends must go in the opposite direction from the center bend. If your center bend pushes the conduit up, the outer bends bring it back down. Get this backwards and you'll end up with an S-curve instead of a saddle.
• Not keeping all three bends in the same plane: If the conduit rotates between bends, the saddle will twist and the conduit won't sit flat. Use a pencil line along the length of the conduit as a reference. Check that the line stays straight after each bend. As noted in Mike Holt's hand bending guide, girdle the conduit with your pencil marks so they're visible from all sides.
• Using the wrong bender reference point: The center bend uses the rim notch (teardrop mark) on the bender. The outer bends use the arrow. Mix these up and your mark spacing will be off.
• Not measuring the obstruction accurately: Measure from the mounting surface (where the conduit strap sits) to the top of the obstruction. If you measure from the wall instead of the strut channel, you'll get the wrong height. An extra 1/4" of error means the conduit either rubs the obstruction or floats above it more than necessary.
• Overbending the angles: If you bend past your target angle, don't try to bend it back. Reverse-bending weakens the conduit and creates a visible kink. Cut a new piece and start over. Conduit is cheaper than your time spent fighting a bad bend.

Quick Reference: 3-Point Saddle Values

Use this table to quickly look up travel and shrink for common obstruction heights at the four standard angles. Keep it in your phone or tape it to your bender handle.

Pre-calculated travel and shrink for common obstruction heights at all four standard saddle bend angles

Obstruction Height	22.5° Travel / Shrink	30° Travel / Shrink	45° Travel / Shrink	60° Travel / Shrink
1"	2-5/8" / 3/16"	2" / 1/4"	1-7/16" / 3/8"	1-3/16" / 1/2"
2"	5-1/4" / 3/8"	4" / 1/2"	2-7/8" / 3/4"	2-5/16" / 1"
3"	7-7/8" / 9/16"	6" / 3/4"	4-1/4" / 1-1/8"	3-1/2" / 1-1/2"
4"	10-1/2" / 3/4"	8" / 1"	5-5/8" / 1-1/2"	4-5/8" / 2"
5"	13-1/16" / 15/16"	10" / 1-1/4"	7-1/16" / 1-7/8"	5-3/4" / 2-1/2"
6"	15-11/16" / 1-1/8"	12" / 1-1/2"	8-1/2" / 2-1/4"	6-15/16" / 3"

For obstruction heights not listed here, use the 3-Point Saddle Calculator or the Conduit Shrink Calculator for exact values.

Related Guides

• For wide or flat obstructions, switch to a 4-point saddle bend instead.
• Need the full multiplier and shrink table? See our conduit bending formulas cheat sheet.
• New to bending? Start with How to Bend Conduit for the complete beginner's walkthrough.

---

Frequently Asked Questions

What angle should I use for a 3-point saddle bend?

The most common center angle is 45 degrees, with 22.5-degree outer bends. For shallow obstructions under 2 inches, a 22.5-degree center bend works well. For obstructions between 2 and 4 inches, use 30 degrees or 45 degrees. For tight clearances above 4 inches, 60 degrees keeps the saddle compact. The steeper the angle, the shorter the saddle but the more shrink you'll need to account for.

What is the shrink for a 3-point saddle bend?

Shrink depends on the center bend angle and the obstruction height. At 22.5 degrees, shrink is 3/16 inch per inch of obstruction. At 30 degrees, it is 1/4 inch per inch. At 45 degrees, it is 3/8 inch per inch. At 60 degrees, it is 1/2 inch per inch. Multiply the obstruction height by the shrink-per-inch value for your angle to get total shrink.

What is the difference between a 3-point saddle and a 4-point saddle?

A 3-point saddle uses three bends to go over an obstruction: one center bend at the full angle and two outer bends at half the angle. A 4-point saddle uses four bends (two offset pairs) and creates a flat section across the top of the obstruction. Use a 3-point saddle for pipes and small obstructions. Use a 4-point saddle for wide or flat obstructions like junction boxes or cable trays.

How do I calculate the distance between bends on a 3-point saddle?

Multiply the obstruction height by the multiplier for your center bend angle. At 45 degrees the multiplier is 1.414, at 30 degrees it is 2.0, and at 22.5 degrees it is 2.613. The result is the distance from the center mark to each outer bend mark. For example, a 3-inch obstruction at 45 degrees: 3 x 1.414 = 4.24 inches from center to each outer mark.

Where do I put the center mark on a 3-point saddle?

Measure from the end of the conduit to the center of the obstruction. Add the shrink amount to that measurement. Mark that adjusted distance on the conduit. This mark aligns with the center bend notch (rim notch or teardrop) on your bender. Forgetting to add the shrink is the most common mistake on saddle bends.